How to Tie Rappelling Knots

Tying strong knots for rappelling and rock climbing is an essential skill. Climbing can be a fun sport, but it is also very dangerous if you don’t know what you are doing. Knots that are tight, strong enough to hold you weight, and won’t snag or tangle your ropes are vital for successful rappelling or climbing. Here are a couple basic knots that every climber should know how to tie. All experts recommend, experimenting and testing the security of different knots “while in a training facility or rock climbing gym. Never test new knots or tying techniques while out climbing on your own, as it is too dangerous.”
Starting with a rope in each hand, make an overhand knot with your left hand over your right hand. This is done by crossing your left hand rope over your right hand, then under, then pulling it through the open loop. Pull it tightly, and then make another overhand knot with the right hand rope over the left hand. Next you want to hold both ropes near the outside of the knots and pull them together so the two knots come back to back. This is a basic fisherman’s knot. You can turn this knot into a double fisherman’s knot if you start out with a double overhand knot on each hand.

A double figure eight knot is another basic knot used for rappelling. Holding the rope in one hand, bend it back until it forms a bight. The Ashley Book of Knots defines a bight as “any curved section, slack part, or loop between the two ends of a rope, string, or yarn.” After you form a bight, wrap that around so it forms a loop as well. Bring the bight up and under the trailing rope and back through the loop, creating a figure eight. Pull the rope and the bight in opposite directions to tighten the knot.
Another good knot to know is the Alpine butterfly knot. This knot does not have to be tied at the end of the rope, making it valuable if your rope has a damaged or weak section you need to isolate. Starting where ever on the rope that you like, twist to form a loop and then twist that loop to form a figure eight shape. Bend the top loop down beneath the rope and then bring it up through the first loop. Pull the rope tight.